Opened just before Christmas 2015, this is a first venture for husband and wife team Cameron and Amee Carter - and a very impressive début it is too. Both have a great track record, having worked with some of Northern Ireland's most interesting restaurateurs, and that experience shows: The Wheathill gives out a quietly welcoming air of confidence that sets guests at ease from the minute they walk through the door.
In fact, it's a place you could easily walk past - but, once inside, the vibes are good. A welcomingly cushioned seating area beside the window invites you to have an aperitif and enjoy the harbour view or keep an eye on Cameron and his team at work in the semi-open kitchen at the far end of the room.
Amee's friendly, well trained staff are quick to offer menus and a drink, and - although the simply written menu may not give too much away - there's a sense of something special in the air as you listen to the day's specials being competently explained and, perhaps, hear about a new dish that's just been introduced.
Pared back, modern design makes the most of a long room which reveals many interesting details that soften the visual impact of compact simply-laid tables lined out along the walls. Pride of place goes to a map of old Bangor (also used on their website), which explains the fascinating historic basis of the restaurant's name. Nothing is here by chance, a lot of TLC has gone into the planning and there's a story behind every feature, including the wonderfully tactile slab of monkey puzzle wood in the little bar that's tucked away down at the back.
As to the cooking, 'fine dining without the fuss' is the style here, so expect deep, gutsy flavours in food that seems simple yet has real finesse. Menus evolve with the season - and with the day, as this is an equally appealing venue for lunch or dinner - and, while there are constant changes, some specialities are likely to endure, albeit with variations.
Of the half dozen or so starters, for example, there may well be a lightly spiced seafood linguine - crab and prawn, perhaps - with chilli, garlic and lemon; perfectly balanced and with just the right degree of piquancy, this delicious dish certainly merits its ongoing place on the menu.
Ever popular beef leads off several meat options among the main courses - chargrilled flat iron steak with fine beans, smoked tomato, and peppercorn sauce at lunchtime, perhaps, replaced with a prime cut such as ribeye on the dinner menu; fish dishes are equally strong contenders and the seasonally-led choices for vegetarians are excellent.
Finish on a high with pretty desserts that include local and seasonal variations on classics - olive oil cake is transformed to become Broighter Gold rapeseed oil cake, for example, and served with luscious seasonal fruits such as rhubarb and strawberry, and lightly scented orange blossom cream.
Cheese lovers will enjoy accompaniments like quince jelly or spiced apple chutney with their selection of the day - and an excuse for a glass of dessert wine or port from a shortish but carefully selected wine and drinks list. This includes cocktails (some made on the gorgeous Shortcross gin from Crossgar), a Fine & Rare Wine section, the local beer Citra (Ards Brewing Co.), and an interesting choice of wines by the glass among many well-priced treats.
Bangor is well served with good eating places but The Wheathill is up there with the best, making it a destination for terrific food and service along with good value. All the signs are that it's there for the long haul too - lucky locals!
