Handily located on the quays, Keith and Carmel Boyle's spacious two-storey restaurant makes an atmospheric setting for some impressive cooking.
"Locally sourced food, cooked local, by a local chef" is the mantra that has diners flocking to Merchants Quay, along with "quality over quantity" - and, while we're at it, they have earned a reputation for great service and good value too.
With mellow brickwork, old timbers, simple table settings and photos of local landmarks, there's a pleasing combination of old and new that give this lovely premises a warmly welcoming feeling and conveys a sense of occasion.
Arriving guests are greeted by Carmel or one of her pleasant staff and, although you may have the option of going straight to your table, it is worth allowing plenty of time to relax in the spacious and comfortably furnished ground floor bar, where cocktails, pre dinner drinks and homemade crisps are served.
Upstairs, the restaurant is in a lovely atmospheric area with old stone walls and a beamed ceiling, although it's not all traditional - the smartly set up bare topped tables give a hint of the contemporary cooking that awaits you, as do the delicious fresh breads (three seed brown bread and sourdough bread, perhaps) that are promptly offered, with plain and flavoured butters.
Keith's carefully crafted menus are all about the seasons and they change every month, so refer to current menus for details of specific dishes. His two or three course early menu ('the pre-dinner menu') offers exceptional value and it's available all evening midweek, but the later three- and five-course dinner menus offer something different and quite special, with the option in each case of carefully selected wine pairings as well.
The five course menu is in effect a tasting menu - an opportunity to taste a lot of different dishes in smaller portions than on the three course dinner, it's perfect for a special occasion or a long leisurely evening around the table wih friends. It's worth noting, incidentally, that vegetarian and gluten free options are highlighted on menus but other allergies or intolerances need to be notified in advance.
Keith's cooking has great finesse and all of his menus are a celebration of the best local and Irish foods, with a focus on artisan production - it's nice to see credit given to such a terrific range of suppliers.There are some stalwarts of the quality food scene (Crowes Farm pork, Oak Park chicken and Billy Burke fish among them) but also some unusual names and products that deserve to be better known - the gorgeous Piedmontese beef that John Commins produces near Thurles, for example, and Elda Wild Irish Venison of Dunhill, Co Waterford, who supply wild game in season; also heritage potatoes from Ballymakenny Farm in Co Louth and fruit and berries from local grower, David Dennison among a number of specialist growers of vegetables, salads and fruit. There's even a dedicated forager, Andrew Malcolm of Lismore, Co Waterford who supplies wild roots and herbs.
The same philosophy applies to the drinks list, which includes wines from small, independent winemakers (supplied by Wines Direct, Mullingar, Co. Westmeath) and beers from a number of craft brewers including the local MetalMan Brewing, Kevin Dundon's Arthurstown Brewing Company just across the estuary in Co Wexford. and Munster Brewery, in nearby Youghal, Co Cork.
The staff are all very pleasant and knowledgeable, which adds a lot to a meal experience that will probably have you planning your next visit before you head for home.
