North Kerry's loss has been south Dublin's gain, as Chef-proprietor Greg O’Mahoney's stylish neighbourhood restaurant Ember is making waves in Milltown.
Located in the midst of a local shopping strip, this smart venue got off to a flying star in November 2016. The interior is modern classic with parquet flooring, heavy wooden tables and low slung chairs that look as if they’re straight out of a design catalogue. A small bar runs the length of the dining room, with chic red leather barstools neatly lined up. In a nod to its location, Ember’s motif is the iconic Nine Arches viaduct.
O’Mahoney brings a strong pedigree to Ember. He has worked in the kitchens at L’Ecrivain, Chapter One and Pichet, and in Castlegregory Co Kerry, where he was until recently at the helm of the locally loved Milesian and Gregory’s Garden Café next door.
Time spent in San Sebastián explains the installation of a plancha grill and wood/charcoal burning oven in Ember. The oven is put to good use, creating items like crisp garlic flatbread as a pre-dinner snack, accompanied by a punchy, fresh pesto.
Starters are modern and stylish, perhaps sweet scallops seared a la plancha, with crisp pork belly, leek and apple caramel or maybe a bowl of lamb consommé silkily enriched with a 62 degree egg.
Cote du boeuf for two is a great sharing dish, while a free-range half chicken is served three ways accompanied by orzo and corn.
There’s a good wine list, while pre- and post-dinner cocktails can be enjoyed at the elegant bar.
As befits a smart, local restaurant, the staff are immaculately attired in modern aprons, with casual and friendly interactions throughout the meal.
Ember is a bright spot, glowing warmly at night, in the middle of a largely residential area. Poised, enticing dishes that use the best of local produce combined with a sleek interior attract local diners away from the bright city centre lights.
