Convenient to the bustling town of Naas, owners Jean Grace and Eugene Brennan have been running this pleasing bar and restaurant since 2008. A smart modern building with ample parking, it is built on Eugene’s family farm and, while the restaurant has become a dining destination, the traditional-style pub is the hub of the village, with locals popping in for a pint and some good food.
The bar menu offers tempting light bites - BBQ ribs with pickled cabbage, perhaps, or a charcuterie plate with sourdough and pickles - and, for something more substantial, there’s the Brown Bear club burger or wild mushroom risotto with spinach.
Reached through the bar, the classically designed restaurant is a handsome balconied room, beautifully set up with polished dark wood tables, linen napkins, quality glassware, china and cutlery - and a visit here always begins well when a lovely basket of breads is offered promptly, along with iced water.
The Early Bird menu offers a choice of two starters – beetroot, goat’s cheese and smoked almond or pumpkin soup, sage and brioche, perhaps – and two mains, such as pork belly with broccoli or duck leg with lentils.
On the main menu, from a choice of about six starters, you might choose scallop, black pudding dumpling, with apple and cauliflower or partridge with bacon and cabbage. Venison, parsnip, and foie gras or halibut, coco beans, beetroot and cauliflower are typical of the six main courses, which change seasonally.
To accompany, there’s an excellent wine list, mainly European but with some bottles also from the southern hemisphere; it offers wines by the glass, carafe or bottle, all reasonably priced.
Desserts (€7) are a delight - lemon cake with tea cream and yoghurt sorbet ,perhaps, or a white chocolate parfait with mango.
The cooking by Head Chef Philip Mahon and his team is of a very high standard throughout - and, complemented by good service from friendly and knowledgeable staff, the experience offers genuine value for money.
Dining here is a real pleasure.
