Having moved from their original small but cosy home above The Anchor Bar to a much better location near the Slieve Donard Hotel, Brunel's may no longer be hidden but it is still a real gem in this famous seaside town.
The new restaurant is far more spacious - and open for much longer hours - but still with all the trademark atmosphere and quirkiness and, of course, the same theme.
It's named to honour the pioneering Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel's connections with the town. The link inspires a subtle decorative theme which is both interesting and entertaining - right down to details like 'winch' salt and pepper mills, and 'shackle' napkin rings on tables.
Already well known in the area (and with a reputation well beyond it), Head Chef Paul Cunningham has earned a following for creative, ingredients-led cooking and those in the know travel from a wide area to enjoy his flavoursome food. Daytime is more casual of course but at dinner time, guests are welcomed by Restaurant Manager Fiona Davey or one of her front of house team, and can then to enjoy a treat from the cocktail list, or perhaps one of their speciality whiskeys - you'll notice warmth and efficiency from the start, and the buzz of happy diners enjoying themselves.
Paul values his suppliers and, although menus are not over burdened with names, he is proud to list them and you'll find some very local businesses such as Dundrum Oyster Fishery, Carnbrook Meats of Dromara and Crossgar Poultry (excellent free range chicken) among the credits, along with other highly regarded suppliers like Walter Ewing of Belfast.
Brunel-inspired cocktails - the Great Western, perhaps, or Clifton Suspension - make amusing aperitifs to enjoy while considering menus that are a refreshingly seasonal read and very temptingly, so decisions are hard to make... Local seafood chowder is a house speciality (sometimes, like the Cajun chicken Caesar salad, available in two sizes at lunchtime), there may be home cured salmon among the starters too, also a gorgeous duck liver parfait, all beautifully partnered with unusual seasonal accompaniments.
Mains include great versions of old favourites - this will be no ordinary steak and chips, for example, but 6 week matured Dromara fillet beef, with duck egg bearnaise, chunky chips and a watercress, shallot and parmesan salad... Mourne lamb will feature in season (roast rump for Sunday lunch, perhaps), also local pork (from John Ferguson of Dromara), a good choice of whatever fish and seafood is at its best, and some interesting free range chicken dishes. And, while the choice for vegetarians may be limited, unusual dishes like Rigatoni with chestnut mushrooms, charred tenderstem, parmesan emulsion, garlic tuille, and chocolate malt should go down well.
Delicious freshly baked breads (perhaps with a tiny cup of the day's soup or some other little treat, if you are lucky) materialise while you are waiting and, from the very first mouthful, you know you're in for something special.
The cooking is terrific - every dish looks great and, more importantly, is bursting with flavour - and the excellent service and pleasing surroundings create a sense of occasion, so even the lightest meal here will feel like a treat.
All this and good value too - no wonder fans are willing to travel many miles for the pleasure of a meal at Brunel's. Lucky Newcastle to have this gem in the town - and now open every day, and for longer hours
