One of the most exciting restaurants to open in Northern Ireland in recent years, this handsome former butcher's shop opened to some acclaim in summer 2016 and is co-owned by the well known Euro-Toques chef, Kelan McMichael.
Former head chef at some of Ireland's most respected establishments - including Rathmullan House, Co Donegal, and The Poacher's Pocket, up the road at Lisbane - the Bull & Ram is Kelan McMichael's first restaurant and his fifteen or so years of experience in the industry shows in the confidence of the overall concept and, of course, in the cooking.
The premises - a listed Edwardian building, with the name Coulter proudly displayed above big arched windows on the impressive frontage - has been imaginatively restored with the help of architect Sean Furey of Gradon Architecture and retains the traditional black and white floor, green and cream wall tiling, a sturdy hanging frame for butchers hooks, herringbone pattern wooden ceiling and many other details. Within a smart contemporary scheme, it makes an atmospheric setting for unpretentious dining at simply laid bare topped tables with mismatched chairs of a certain age.
At the back, in a modern extension, the main focus is an open kitchen where you can watch Kelan McMichael and his brigade preparing the hearty, flavour-packed dishes that regular patrons travel many miles to enjoy,
Meats are, of course, the main feature - especially the wonderful Himalayan salt-aged beef from Peter Hannan at Moira, Co Down (aged for up to 66 days, speciality steak dishes are priced by cut and weight), and local Mourne Mountain lamb, supplied by Carnbrooke Meat - but sustainable fish from nearby ports Portavogie and Dundum also stars. Other valued suppliers include Ards Peninsula vegetable growers and there are plans to grow produce for the kitchen on site as well, in a walled garden at the back of the restaurant.
Nibbles and starters include excellent soda bread and country butter, massive pork scratchings served with apple sauce and, perhaps, Young Buck blue cheese and oxtail bon bons or French onion soup - and offal lovers may be in for a treat as there could be some unusual dishes not found elsewhere, such as sweetbreads or tripe. Steak is the favourite main, of course - cooked to perfection and served with beef dripping chips - and the lamb may go into another speciality, a Mourne shank pie. But that local fish is not to be overlooked and another signature dish that diners travel especially for is the Strangford lobster and crayfish cocktail.
Sunday brings 'The Toast to the Roast' menu and the bone marrow gravy and massive Yorkshire puddings are already legendary, but non meat eat eaters will be glad to know that vegetarians and vegans are also catered for and - as Kelan is an experienced forager - there may be some interesting choices to be made.
The drinks menu has a local tone too, with Co Down craft beers, cider and gin all offered, alongside wines from the renowned James Nicholson wine merchants of Crossgar. All this and delightful service from excellent local staff - but, be warned, you will need to pace yourself at the Bull & Ram, as the portions are generous in the extreme.
