The name suggests something a little more rough and ready than the rather finessed fare offered at this, another of Dublin's increasing number of chef-owned bistros.
Chef-proprietor Padraic Hayden applies the skills he acquired in the likes of One Pico and Still at The Dylan (where he was head chef) to the more intimate setting of this Dublin 8 local; while Magali Chamson (also ex-Still) fronts the house with considerable charm.
There is some superb value to be had from this Dublin restaurants short and regularly changing menu, especially for main courses (which average at low teens for lunch and late teens for dinner).
Expect well-sourced ingredients with a cheffy leaning – guinea fowl rather than chicken, served with a cep sauce perhaps – delivered through solid, well-executed cooking.
Freer rein is given to the kitchen's talents and ambitions in the starters and desserts: think duck confit boudin with Granny smith apple, pickled red cabbage and hazelnuts; or Bramley apple tart tatin with salt caramel and thyme ice-cream.
Lunch includes some lighter fare, such as merguez sausages with cornichons in a crusty baguette.
A carefully chosen wine selection includes many by the glass, and Magali can give you a good steer on pairing these with your menu choices.
An elegant addition to an increasingly eclectic neighbourhood selection.
