RELOCATED TO NAAS, CO KILDARE
(045) 883 869
Hidden away behind Kilnacourt House in the centre of Portarlington, Barry and Dawn Hayden's smart-casual restaurant brings many welcome elements together and is assured enough to feel relaxed and let the food do the talking.
Café by day and restaurant at night, The Candied Walnut is a chatty spot with engaging staff and a range of well priced menus to suit all times and occasions. Managing a balance between playful and refined,It offers contemporary, precise cooking in a setting that combines a darkwood elegance - on terra firma - and a funkier, regularly re-imagined styling at head height.
The day begins in late morning, with a lunch menu that offers everything from soup of the day with homemade brown bread, through gourmet sandwiches (toasted or plain), wraps and salads, to 'proper lunch' dishes including bangers & mash, a House Pie special and fish of the day - and a tempting choice of homemade desserts, also including a daily special.
Evening brings an opportunity for the kitchen to flex its culinary muscles. Contemporary Irish dishes and ingredients give a nod to French traditions and offer a change from the main meats seen on a typical Irish menu - Slow Cooked Rabbit Leg,for example, which may come with smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, tarragon jus; or perhaps Roast Quail, with celeriac purée, foie gras, thyme jus and the 60 degree egg yolk that is currently de rigeur. With dedicated offerings of fish, pasta, grill and vegetarian the choices offer something to please everyone and there is a seemingly effortless exactness to the cooking - each element, no matter how small, plays its part with aplomb.
When it comes to desserts, tradition and novelty again sit comfortably together. Their stalwart Deconstructed Raspberry and White Chocolate Cheesecake with Ginger Biscuit (and some lovely little unnamed flourishes) is worth trying from the à la carte, especially if in a sharing mood. Even the more usual desserts such as a Warm Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Ice Cream are notable for their attention to detail, with half a dozen or so little players in the presentation.
A whopping 14 types of allergens are listed, assigned to each dish by number, another indication of the care given to both food and customer service. Whatever the dish or menu, the thought has gone into its harmonious integration is clear - and every dish is capable of surprise, up to the last bite.
Sunday menus are pitched towards the traditional, so roast lamb or hearty rib of beef and Yorkshire pudding might tempt.
The wine list is short but well chosen, while helpful wine accompaniments are noted for many dishes. There are plenty of glass and carafe options too.
Stylish surroundings, engaging staff, thoughtfully constructed menus and cooking that has real finesse all add up to a good reason to take a detour to The Candied Walnut - and it's great value too.
