Clanbrassil House in Dublin 8 has written the ultimate recipe for success: A small, talented team. Great ingredients, simply served. No fuss décor. Fair prices. Relaxed, fun service.
This unassuming neighbourhood restaurant, a spin-off of Bastible, is cool and casual, its long narrow space offering high tables with stools out front for walk-ins and small tables out back with a view onto the tiny, busy kitchen.
Here head chef, Grainne O’Keefe, plies her trade, serving a short but imaginative menu of flavour-packed dishes. Broken into Snacks, Plates, Charcoal Grill, Sides and Desserts, there isn’t a weak link on the menu.
From signature ham croquettes with molten fillings to wild mushrooms on toast with a just-cooked egg yolk and Gubbeen lardo, flavours are big and beautiful. The charcoal grill is put to good use on filling dishes like a charred onglet (hanger) steak served with bone marrow and piquant chimichurri. Sides include clever and delicious hash brown chips with pickled onion mayonnaise that is just as good as it sounds.
A Family Style menu (€40) is also offered, with the kitchen assembling a selection of sharing dishes from the menu, while vegetarians are well catered for too.
Desserts are moreish, perhaps a warm ginger cake with salted caramel ice cream or chocolate mousse with honeycomb and marmalade ice cream.
The wine offering may be short, but it's imaginative and served by the glass, carafe and bottle, making this an ideal mid-week walk-in kind of place – if you’re lucky enough to find a table free.
It may be a casual neighbourhood affair, but it’s a super spot and more than worth a detour if you’re not lucky enough to live locally.
*A cool newer cafe next door, serves eggs, toasties, salads, granola, coffees and home made pastries to-go through breakfast and lunch.
