Pat O'Malley is a fishmonger and an architect and, when he and his wife Lisa opened this atmospheric modern restaurant on the Salthill seafront in the sunny summer of 2014, they were celebrating family links with the sea that go back generations.
The O’Malleys are a fishing family from Cleggan, where an uncle has a mussel farm, and the family has had several trawlers fishing off the west coast of Ireland for over forty years.
This two-storey glass fronted seaside restaurant with uninterrupted views of Galway Bay is a all about that tradition. The scene is set by glowing brass lanterns that illuminate the gleaming bar, and walls alternating between exposed brickwork and driftwood effect panelling that are hung with family photos.
Red sails on the ceiling cast a warm light below, and these are real sails, giving much more than a casual nod to the traditional 'Galway Hooker' boats with their impressive spread of dusky red cloth. This authenticity carries a message: The Fisherman is serious about seafood.
This modern restaurant is part of the new wave of top-quality chippies where the emphasis is on quality fish from sustainable sources, especially in the evening. The lunch menu is lighter on fish with a great selection of sandwich melts served with soup or fries, while at dinner the ice counter is centre stage, with the day's fresh fish proudly displayed for customers to see what's on offer.
An open kitchen creates a busy, buzzy atmosphere and you can watch the chefs assembling dishes of fresh fish and shellfish including oysters, mussels and langoustine in a choice of small or large servings.
There is also creamy seafood chowder, vegetable soup, or simply prepared smoked salmon. You could try a light Connemara crabmeat cocktail, where Waldorf salad meets the sea - a happy pile of crab, celery, apple, a hint of lime and a nice spike of fresh chilli.
For mains, what could be more delicious than a choice of the day’s freshly caught fish - cod, hake and haddock, either in a crisp golden batter or simply cooked on the grill. All come with tartare sauce, pea purée with a hint of mint and fries. The fries are the double fried beef dripping kind, the real deal.
Steak, surf and turf, grilled salmon and a vegetarian option complete the short and confidently cooked evening menu. Their fish and chips are available as take-out also, at a much reduced price.
Add a good wine list and a small selection of tasty desserts and you have a restaurant with the holiday atmosphere only a seaside setting can bring, even in the depths of winter.
