Barbecue restaurants may be ten a penny these days, but this one is different - and it hit the ground running when it opened in March 2016, with food critics queuing up to see what returning native John Relihan was cooking up in Cork.
Former head chef at Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa BBQ restaurant in London, the young Irishman has serious form, having trained with world renowned pit-master, Adam Perry Lang, and also worked with Fergus 'nose to tail' Henderson, the chef who challenged the 'premium meats' culture when his much-admired restaurant St John opened in the mid '90s and his (sometimes literally) gutsy cooking re-wrote the rule book. Not that there is too much offal on the menu at Holy Smoke, but with such a background John Relihan was bound to do things differently.
With all this promise in the kitchen and atmosphere too, it's no wonder Holy Smoke was soon the hottest ticket in town. It's part of Eddie Nicholson's Mardyke Entertainment Complex, which also houses a number of other enterprises including The Porterhouse Cork craft beer bar (in partnership with Oliver Hughes and Liam Lehart), and a multi-vaulted area in an old wine warehouse makes an atmospheric setting. Lovely old exposed brickwork contrasts with contemporary industrial chic decor - bare bulbs artlessly arranged on coloured flex, and (surprisingly comfortable) metal chairs set around bare timber tables - settings are simple, with rolls of kitchen roll replacing napkins, and if you fancy eating in a wire mesh cage 'private room' this is the place for it.
A life-size drawing of a cow illustrates the various (Irish) meat cuts and big red letters electronically display Holy Smoke or Low and Slow - and yes, although there are concessions to vegetarians (a 'Hallelujah' burger, with grilled halloumi, perhaps, or 'naked salad' of apple, kohlrabui and celeriac wth smoked lime & chilli dressing) it's all about the meat here.
Low and Slow sums up the 'Pit Smoked BBQ' process which involves gentle cooking over fire and smoke for three to 16 hours. And therein lies the skill, as their custom cuts of fresh Irish meats are dry-rubbed with a house blend of herbs and spices and then gently cooked in a specially imported smoker using different varieties of (sustainable, chemical-free) woods to compliment each dish. Having been periodically basted ('using a handmade herb brush to build further flavour complexity...') the meats (and vegetables) are finally char-grilled to give that special barbecue sensation.
So how do they taste? Pretty darn good is the answer, as the meat will be meltingly falling-off-the-bone tender and with far more complexity of flavour than would normally be associated with barbecued food.
There are no starters listed on the menu, which should be taken as hint of what's to come - you can start with some pickles and bites, but most punters go straight to the main event: Pulled pork, perhaps, smoked for 14 hours over oak and served with their own barbecue sauce, or chicken, given four hours over fruit wood and served with smoked lime and chargrilled sweetcorn.
The Beef Short Rib is highly recommended for serious meat eaters and, with its meltingly tender texure and complex flavours, demonstrates well the quality at play here: 20 oz of dry rubbed Irish beef rib, it is slow-smoked for 14 hours over fruit wood, glazed with Oyster Stout, and served with naked slaw and a delicious cornbread that has itself earned a following.
You could also try two different types of ribs - pork and beef - or a burger such as The Dirty Swine, which has both beef and pork in it. But the really hungry will be eyeing up the Pit-master - a big enough selection for most good appetites - or the BBQ Blow-out, which is is even bigger. A huge dish of brisket burnt ends, dry rubbed baby back ribs, pit smoked BBQ chicken and pulled pork, plus two Humble sides (Divine sides, such as sweet potato fries, cost extra), it's one to share.
Desserts are offered on the menu, but we have yet to find anyone with the appetite for them after such a gargantuan feast.
The wine list is short, with just five or six each of reds and whites available, but the craft beer drinker is well catered for with Eight Degrees, Blacks of Kinsale and Torc among the brewers represented, also a couple of Greens Gluten Free beers and Stonewell Cider. Lots of cocktails too, and a very good choice of gins, whiskeys and some other spirits.
The staff are great - very prompt and friendly, eager to help and explain the menu on arrival - and the value is good too, so Holy Smoke looks set to take its place as a longterm favourite with Corkonians and visitors to the city alike.
