Formerly The Quay Cottage, this well-loved and beautifully located waterside restaurant sits snugly beside the gates of Westport House. It reopened for the 2015 season with a keen young Chef/Patronne, Aine Maguire, creating a buzz in the kitchen - and a new name, inspired by a nearby wall where dockers once kicked their heels while waiting for casual harbour employment.
A native of Newport, Aine travlelled widely and returned home following a spell as Executive Chef at the British Embassy in Dublin, but it's her earlier pedigree - notably in Chapter One and The Winding Stair - that shows in her commitment to showcasing the foods, especially seafoods, of the Western Way and the Great Western Greenway areas in simple, flavoursome cooking.
Having completed a full revamp of Quay Cottage, it emerged as The Idle Wall Restaurant just in time for Easter. Though the floor layout remains the same - two areas
to the front, a bar area in the middle and the long room at the rear - the decor has been completely changed. Gone is the sea-faring theme, replaced with light shades of grey and green, a colour scheme that is carried through on the seating and table linen (and the Ikea tableware) giving a new bright and airy feel to this cottage restaurant.
The mainly local staff are friendly and efficient; menus, water, and a variety of delicious breads (including a traditional white soda bread with dillisk, a lovely combination) are quickly offered and dishes explained.The menu is a seasonal showcase of what is best in the west of Ireland, from a network of local suppliers. Oysters, mussels, razor fish, clams, prawns and Achill smoked mackerel are all likely to be included in the starters (€8.50 to €16.50) while cod, john dory, turbot, salmon, black sole, organic potato boxty, pork, lamb and a choice of beef dishes may feature among the main courses (€18.50 to €29.50) .
There is no supplier list and little specific mention of provenance, but the emphasis is on the philosophy of a local food culture and the meaning is clear. Vegetarian dishes have special appeal and the few names that are mentioned (Carrowholly Nettle Cheese, Clare Island Crab, Killary Fjord Razor Clam) somehow create a vivid picture.
In the Guide's experience, starters of black pudding apple and pork terrine, devilled lamb's kidneys followed by main courses of rack of Mayo lamb and a posh fish pie could not be faulted. Some carrots and two potato halves may be all that comes with the mains to share between two, but it is enough as the portions are not small.
Home made desserts are all old favourites served with a modern twist, and very good: rhubarb and custard trifle, apple tart and goody of brioche with burned sugar and whiskey each cost a modest €5.50.
The wine list offers 24 wines,12 each of red and white priced from €23 to €53, with nine under €30. Six are available by the glass (€5.75 to €7.50) and a 1/2 carafe is offered at €17.
A meal here will not be cheap, but it will be fairly priced for the quality and the memory will linger long - a must-try when visiting Westport.
