A café-restaurant with a double life, Kappa-Ya operates as an informal Japanese café for most of the week, serving substantial miso-based soups; sushi rolls based on the likes of smoked salmon or Japanese omelette; and don rice bowls with tempura or teriyaki.
This Galway restaurants decor is pitched towards this casual fare, with wooden floorboards and bare wood tables and chairs; service is similarly relaxed. Having delivered within the restraints of a commercially viable venture throughout the week, it is on a Saturday that chef-proprietor Junichi Yoshiyagawa opens downstairs and has his culinary fun.
At lunchtime, nigiri sushi makes it on to the menu, with fresh fish from that day's market and there is a café menu in the afternoon during the week and a standard dinner menu is served Monday - Friday.
But Saturday's dinner is where it's really at - Saturday's four course dinner menu must be booked with at least three days notice for the simple reason that this is how long this talented and wildly imaginative chef takes to prepare some of the dishes involved.
Expect the likes of the signature Kappa-Ya lamb, marinated for three days in soy and Cashel Blue, gently grilled and served with a clove-spiced kumquat relish and a bitter avocado purée.
To start, you might graze through soy-marinated cubes of market fresh raw tuna tossed with yuzu-flavoured goat's cheese; or seared bonito with a red onion, watercress and orange salad.
For dessert, expect more exoticism in the form of combinations such as salted cherry blossom and camembert ice-cream with azuki beans and a light and subtle green tea chiffon cake.
Utterly unique and thoroughly worth seeking out.
Be prepared to bring an open mind – but, while some of the dishes demand an intrepid palate, there are less challenging options too; and the warm hospitality of the staff combined with a short but varied sake list and some inspired wine matches by the glass help to create a most comfortable ambience.
