John Farrell seems to have a magic touch when it comes to restaurants. From Dillingers to The Butcher Grill to 777 and Super Miss Sue he’s custodian of some of Dublin’s hottest spots. Skilled at translating international dining trends for Dublin’s increasingly competitive restaurant scene his newest opening, Luna, doesn’t disappoint.
Located snugly in the basement of Super Miss Sue it might be brand new but it looks like it’s been dropped in straight from 1960s New York. All low-lights, intimate leather banquettes, a killer bar and waiters with bowties and wine velvet dinner jackets, it’s irresistibly stylish, atmospheric and cool. It’s easy to imagine Sinatra siting at the bar here (though you are likely to spot celebs and society folk enjoying a late night here.)
Happily the food is as much a draw as the setting, with a New York Italian focus that features classic dishes like oxtail minestrone, (delicious) spaghetti al tartufo and veal chop marsala.
Staff, under the expert eye of Declan Maxwell (former manager of Chapter One) have been expertly trained. They know the menu intimately and buzz about swiftly and intuitively. Food is theatrically presented, without being gimmicky, and delivers big bold flavours.
Karl Whelan (ex Chapter One and Fade Street Social) is behind the stove and runs a calm, organised kitchen, as you’ll witness from the dining room. Everything delivers a flavour punch, from the succulent chargrilled octopus starter to a rustic salumi plate of choice Italian cold cuts sliced to order. Highlights include succulent broccoli rabe tortellini with crab (order it to share and they’ll split the order and plate it twice) and pork rack from the charcoal grill, in a ragu of peppers and garllcky sausage.
The vintage dessert trolley, wheeled to your table, is a sight to behold, and well worth saving room for. The layered hummingbird cake – a moist banana and pineapple sponge with cinnamon buttercream is beyond delicious, though you may prefer the New York cheesecake or tiramisu with a twist. Whatever your, fancy you will not be disappointed, especially when finished off with a top coffee.
Luna’s diverse and snappy wine list veers towards the pricier end of the spectrum, though there is prosecco plus a few wines on tap, with ten other wines by the glass. We like the idea of starting with an aperol spritz at the bar and buying into the whole Italian vibe in style.
