Delahunt is a thing of rare beauty – a new restaurant in an old building that looks beautiful and serves beautiful food. Opened in a landmark Victorian grocers, the elegant building oozes charm and character outside and in.
Owner Darren Free's sensitive renovations mean the impressive old mahogany counter is still in place, discreetly raised to make it bar height, only now it’s surrounded by teal walls, buffed floorboards, marble-topped tables and bentwood chairs. The original cashier’s office makes an atmospheric snug that’s ideal for private dining and the kitchen is tucked away down the back.
Manned by head chef Dermot Staunton it offers a short menu of four starters and four mains, plus two snacks, for nibbling on. A starter of salmon, house-smoked using lapsang souchong tea, and served with sweet Guinness bread, horseradish butter and cool cucumber highlights the intent here - to create delicious contemporary Irish food with wonderful textures and tastes.
Mains might include venison haunch cured in treacle, beetroot braised spelt or pheasant in bacon, each imaginatively pared with good accompaniments. Dishes are beautifully presented with lovely vibrancy, and you can see someone cares about the ingredients (although provenance on the menu would reinforce the obvious interest).
Portions are small and sides, like mixed greens with toasted almonds, are needed to create a filling meal. Nevertheless the cooking is exciting and concise and desserts, perhaps blood orange tart or a fine chocolate pudding, more than round off the meal well.
Service is charming and it’s easy to see that time has been invested in training the staff.
With a short but accessible wine list, and good beer offering Delahunt is a restaurant with real appeal. The music is low and, unlike so many other new restaurants, doesn’t interfere with chatter. The cosy window seat is especially lovely for a date, allowing you to peer through the net curtain at the bustling street beyond.
A great resurrection of a Victorian landmark.
