Named for the Gallic hometown of proprietor Olivier Meisonnave, Dax has been a success since it first opened in an intimate Georgian basement in Pembroke Street in 2004. Olivier honed his front-of-house skills as the charming maitre’D at Kevin Thornton’s world-class restaurant, and his natural people skills found him a ready clientele for his new venture.
Fast-forward 12 years and Dax, already on the culinary map, has welcomed gifted chef Graham Neville from the celebrated Restaurant 41 at Residence. Graham was Kevin Thornton’s Head Chef when Olivier worked front-of-house there, and the duo’s reunion marks one of the most exciting partnerships on the Dublin dining scene.
Graham’s cooking is sublime – sophisticated, delicate and perfectly balanced, using the best of Irish produce and classical French methods. His menus are an exercise in contemporary sophistication including treasures such as might wonderful Annagassan smoked salmon with Clogherhead crab, mulard Irish duck with foie gras and cherries, Ballycullan lamb with wet garlic and fillet of turbot with broad beans and elderflower sauce. Graham’s signature dish, an Iona Farm courgette flower stuffed with prawns and served in a prawn bisque is the epitome of elegance.
Each dish is perfectly conceived and flawlessly executed, ensuring there’s not a weak dish on the menu. From the excellent soda bread with Cuinneog butter to the selection of Sheridan’s cheese in peak condition, perfect chocolate fondant to dreamy petit fours and quality coffee, dining here is a memorable treat.
The surprise tasting menu of 7 courses is a wonderful way to enjoy all Dax has to offer (€90) and is made more delicious with the wine selection, 7 perfectly matched glasses for an additional €40. Those watching their time, or money, will find the set lunch menu of €27.50 for two courses a great value way to enjoy cooking of this calibre.
The basement of a fine Georgian building, Dax had a revamp mid 2017 and the dining room now features deep pile carpets, complementing the crisp linen table cloths, and making it feel more high end. There’s still a lovely wine bar by the entrance and a mix of large tables and two-tops ensuring everyone, from corporate groups to couples, feels at home.
This Dublin restaurants service is warm, fun and engaging, something that clearly comes from the top down. Wine has always been a priority at Dax and Olivier’s list is, arguably, one of the finest in the country. Unashamedly French you’ll find everything from Grand Cru Bordeaux to affordable Viognier and Picpoul de Pinet alongside good value Spanish and Italians. The choice is vast and will appeal to everyone from the expert to the budget-conscious and those with corporate credit cards.
Tables are already hard to come by in the new Dax, but a visit to this wonderful restaurant is guaranteed to be worth the wait.
