Wildeside Café is quite the hidden gem, tucked away in a modest premises that's home to some seriously good cooking.
A chef in the classical tradition, Alan O'Reilly is something of an unsung hero but discerning fans have eagerly followed him to a succession of excellent restaurants - most recently the much-missed Alexis in Dun Laoghaire - and they lost no time in catching up with him when he opened here in Cabinteely Village in the summer of 2015.
Decor is low key, bistro style - homely and welcoming rather than a statement space - with no reception area but a bar over to one side, an open kitchen at the end and simple table settings.
As always in the O'Reilly restaurants, prompt and friendly service starts at the door and arriving guests will be taken straight to their table to choose from one of Alan's short but enticing menus. He is well known for excellent game cooking in season - perhaps with a special set menu - and there are fish evenings from time to time as well.
Although tthe food is lighter than the 'classical' label might imply, and very seasonally driven, don't head to Wildeside for dinner in the expectation of finding Nordic influences or foraged ingredients - although there may well be a nod to current trend, such as fermented foods where relevant.
In a superb dish of wood pigeon with girolle mushrooms and red wine, for example, the tender pink pigeon sits atop a fermented potato bread - rewena paraoa, a Maori recipe from New Zealand, introduced by one of O'Reilly's kitchen team - that adds tang and substance. It's a brilliant dish, with tiny silver-skin onions and shards of crisp, deep-fried chicken skin that bring flavour and texture and elevate it beautifully.
Saucing and accompaniments are excellent and each deeply flavoured creation is carefully composed and balanced, with enough going on on the plate to showcase O'Reilly's prodigous talent, but not so much as to overwhelm. Although provenance is not highlighted, unfortunately, the food here is seasonal in the true sense, with flavour always to the fore.
Faultless desserts lean towards the indulgent - a gorgeous cocolate mousse topped with a white chocolate froth, for example, or a dark chocolate tart and a house-made caramel ice-cream with a salted caramel and vanilla crumb...
The wine list is mainly French and manager and sommelier, Robert O'Reilly, is on hand to advise on the best wines to complement each dish; wine pairings can be an excellent option, and good value too.
A meal at Wildeside is a treat and reasonably priced, especially considering the quality of ingredients and intricacy of the dishes, all of which comprise several elements.
Although described modestly as a neighbourhood café and bistro (and open for breakfast and lunch, as well as dinner), Wildeside is a wonderful destination for food lovers and well worth a journey.
