Occupying the top floor of one of St Stephen’s Green’s most impressive buildings, Restaurant FortyOne quickly earned a reputation as one of the finest restaurants in the city.
For ten years, up until 2017, the creeper-clad four-storey Georgian townhouse was a private members club, although the fine dining restaurant has always been open to the public.
With the departure of top chef Graham Neville, a new executive head chef, Peter Byrne, took over the kitchen in 2017. His arrival coincided with Residence coming under new ownership and also a decision to cast off its members club status and open its doors to the public.
Arriving from Sika in the Powerscourt Hotel, Peter brings much experience, having also spent time working with Ross Lewis in Chapter One. His appealing menus demonstrate ambition and an appreciation of fine Irish ingredients – although, for a fine dining restaurant, it would be good to see even more provenance on the menu.
Diners are greeted in the hall of this once private home before being guided up to a beautiful dining space with enviable views over St Stephen’s Green. Starched white linen, sparkling glasses and silverware suit the period features, including high ceilings, stucco work, large windows, gilt-framed mirrors and wood panelling. It’s a comfortable, elegant space, with the window tables making for the best seats in town.
Peter’s tempting menus might include a starter of perfectly seared yellow fin tune with Lambay crab meat and yuzu jelly followed by succulent loin of Kerry Hill lamb with wet garlic purée, baby artichoke and tomberries (tiny tomatoes). Dishes are beautifully presented and flavoursome. Desserts are original too, with the likes of rhubarb millefeuille with gingerbread ice cream to finish up.
Dining à la carte is on the high side (main courses begin at €35) so Peter’s 7-course surprise tasting menu offers better value overall. Some dishes are more successful than others, but there is plenty of quality on offer.
The wine list is superb and is overseen by sommelier Victor Nedelea, one of the best in the country. Several wines are available by the glass and good coffee is served with fabulous petit fours.
Restaurant FortyOne is still a special place, and with some fine tuning, has the ability to deliver the kind of top notch experiences it has been known for in the past.
