Bang restaurant is the restaurant version of the Irish boom and bust.
After being wound up in the depths of the Irish recession, this Dublin restaurants bounced back through investment from Bobby Kerr and the Barrett family. Its prime location on Merrion Row means that it’s bang in the middle of town and popular with both locals and visitors alike.
Chef Niall O’Sullivan has taken up residence here, following stints at the now-closed Isabel’s, and The East Side Tavern. Having spent time cooking in Australia, Niall is a passionate advocate of wild and foraged foods, and brings a sharp focus on seasonal food and creative ingredients
The use of Irish and seasonal ingredients is apparent from the menu. Spring menus might include Dooncastle oysters from Connemara, listed alongside Slaney lamb from Wexford. This Irish vibe is enlivened by contrasting dishes such as octopus and morcilla in a Spanish-influenced starter, or a main of fresh pappardelle paired with Bianchetto truffle and walnut agresto.
Pre- and post-dinner cocktails are available from the small downstairs bar, with a decent wine list that includes a good by the glass choice - although prices start slightly at the steep end, and continue upwards.
The food is good here, yet there is a sense that it could all be so much better.
Tables are closely packed, especially in the darker downstairs area, while staff are constantly buzzing up and down the many staircases, plates of food or bottles of wine in hand. In places, the dining room feels tired, and the overall experience can feel pedestrian - perhaps the tide is rising too quickly at Bang, where there is a good buzz but menu prices now feel as if they have outstripped Bang’s famous standards of service and style.
Many Irish hotels and restaurants are now investing in refurbishment - and, perhaps, reinvention - in this post-recession phase, and it is to be hoped that the owners of Bang have such a plan in mind - it would be lovely to see this creative chef given the setting and service that his food deserves.
Situated over three floors, the atmosphere is classy and sophisticated while still being relaxed and informal, with heavy white tablecloths, plush seating and black and white still life photos upstairs. Recent refurbishment has seen the walls redone in a subtle oyster grey, which adds now to the more muted, elegant ambience.
Details of provenance abound, with delicious Clare Island salmon, Castletownbere scallops, Wicklow game, Fivemiletown goats cheese and Kilkeel Harbour hake all likely to feature. But, in keeping with the philosophy of head chef and partner Phil Yeung (formerly of Town Bar and Grill), the main focus is on seasonality. And in winter there's a welcome an emphasis on game, along with other seasonal produce - roast squash soup with sage dumplings and hazelnuts, a Jerusalem artichoke risotto, and crushed swede as a side dish.
Sweet Castletownbere scallops contrast nicely with briny capers in the dressing, while Wicklow venison, cooked medium rare at the chef's suggestion, is beautifully tender and may be classically paired with blackberries, parsnip purée and a deeply savoury jus. Serving sizes are perfectly judged to leave you wishing for just one more delicious bite and the menu is inventive enough to make the meal feel like a special occasion.
The service at Bang is exceptional. Warmly welcoming staff - who are attentive without being obtrusive and genuinely friendly - have excellent knowledge of the menu, including the wine list (wide ranging and helpfully organised by style) when asked for suggestions. At Bang, you feel both well fed and well looked after.
Confident, inventive and seasonal cooking, impeccable service and an atmosphere that strikes a perfect balance between casualness and elegance make Bang an excellent choice for everything from a midweek meal to a special occasion.
