Owned by 'caterer to the stars' Audrey McDonald and her husband, Newstalk presenter Tom Dunne, this is a popular spot on Glasthule's main drag.
Offering an evolving series of frequently-changed menus through the day and late-week evenings - and background music carefully selected by Tom - the Cookbook Cafe is the realisation of a dream for Audrey.
Having cooked for many rich and famous people, she wanted a restaurant of her own where she could cook what she wanted to, rather than what the client dictated. She came up with the fun idea of not just recreating dishes from of her favourite books some cookbooks - as many others do, whether credited or not - but also offering some of the books for sale, so happy customers could have ago at rustling them up at home too.
It's an engaging idea and fits on well with the ambience of the homely yet bright space, a sort of modern country kitchen designed with comfort in mind as well as style. A section at the front leads through to more seating at the rear and, weather permitting, there are some outdoor tables for al fresco dining too. Simple, unfussy white crockery and paper napkins allows the food to shine - the USP here is not the surroundings (pleasant as they are) but the frequently changing menus, inspired by the books of a wide range of mainly famous chefs and food writers.
Modern classics like Ottolenghi's Plenty, The River Cafe Cookbook, Skye Gyngell's A Year in my Kitchen (and her more recent 'Spring') and Thomasina Miers' Mexican Food at Home are among the influences that set the tone and, while there is no common theme, flavours often tend towards the spicy end of the spectrum, with Middle Eastern and South American flavours especially prevalent.
This relaxed and comely café has made a commitment to fresh cooking as opposed to buying in, the only exception being bread. Sunday brunch is especially popular here - try the hearty house quesadilla (€12.50), using a recipe by US chef Bobby Flay, for example, with fontina cheese, goats cheese, zucchini, red onion marmalade, chilli with salsa and sour cream.
Other items may include a tasty organic Irish beef burger with Cheddar, grilled onion and mesa grill sauce in a wholemeal blaa (€13.50); and baked eggs Mexican style (€10.95) with ranch style sauce, chorizo, crème fraiche, Monterey Jack, chilli, salsa and warm tortillas. But it is as much the ambience that attracts so many people here to relax on a Sunday, always with the possibility that Tom Dunne may be present to add to the atmosphere with his musical choices of the day.
A short but well chosen wine list is boosted by some refreshing non-alcoholic choices and a tea and coffee menu, and another special feature is the cute Children's Menu, which was designed by Audrey and Tom's daughter, Eva Dunne, and includes some unusual dishes.
Service from cheery staff is friendly, although better staff training would help to ensure that dishes always reach the table at their best - and bring everything at this likeable café up to its full potential.
