Finnish chef Mickael Viljanen has been wowing Dublin Restaurants diners since 2012 when savvy restaurateur Eamonn O’Reilly (of One Pico) invited him to move from Gregan’s Castle in The Burren and make a name for himself in Dublin. The GreenHouse opened to immediate critical acclaim with Mickael’s New Nordic style of cooking offering a fresh take on modern Irish cuisine.
Five years on, Mickael’s talent show no sign of letting up in this chic, stylish fine dining restaurant on Dawson Street. Impeccable service, linen-draped tables, elegant stemware and a collection of beautiful tableware are all worthy of the exquisite food on offer.
Lunch offers some of the best value in town, with two courses at €29.50 and 3 for €38. (A 5-course surprise tasting menu of €65 is well worth the indulgence, should you be lucky enough have the afternoon free.) On first appearance this isn’t cheap, but when you sample the finest ingredients, the supreme creativity and the jaw-dropping attention to detail in every dish you’ll know that this is no ordinary restaurant. The moment you dip into the sensational amuse-bouches, you’ll know you’ve arrived somewhere truly special.
The dishes are theatrical in their beauty, yet there’s no gimmickry on the plates. Each piece of unusual tableware has been selected to complement each individual dish, highlighting the care and attention to detail. A starter like golden beetroot, fresh quince, toasted hazelnuts and foie gras snow is as luxurious as it is delicious. A main of pristine line caught haddock with vibrant winter greens, sweet mussels and crisp sea mustard is as elegant as it is the perfect blend of sweet, salt and umami.
Desserts are always exquisite and while Mickael’s inventive menus change constantly The GreenHouse’s signature dessert, a passionfruit soufflé with white chocolate and ginger sauce, is, justifiably, a menu staple. You will need to wait 20 minutes for it to be cooked, but you won’t be disappointed when the towering, fluffy creation emerges from the kitchen.
Dinner choices include a four-course set menu for €79 to be enjoyed by the whole table, a 3-course menu with two choices per course, coffee and petit fours for €75 and a 6-course surprise tasting menu for €95 that must also be ordered by the whole table (though a vegetarian menu is of course available.) On Friday and Saturday nights it’s surprises all round as the only menu available is a five-course surprise tasting menu for €85. Tea and coffee are included, with the most fantastical petit fours. These gorgeous confections are a delightful way to round off this gourmet extravaganza.
Service, under the supervision of Paul Young is the right balance of polished, professional and friendly. The GreenHouse’s wine list is suitably impressive too, with a decent choice of 17 wines by the glass, including some exceptional premium offerings, with good value bottles as well as big hitters and the option to order matching wines with each menu. Beer, cider and spirits also available.
Everything from the intimate room to the pleasant décor and warm staff enhance the special feeling you’ll get when dining here. The stunning food will take your breath away, and no matter how often you’re lucky enough to eat here you’ll never fail to be astounded by the level of creativity and brilliance poured into every dish. Mickael’s cooking is in a league of its own and The GreenHouse will deliver one of Ireland’s finest culinary experiences.
