Keenly anticipated by followers of the gifted chef and West Cork native Rob Krawczyk - whose stunning seasonal cooking previously wowed diners at Tankardstown House in Co Meath - Restaurant Chestnut opened bang on schedule, ahead of the 2018 summer season, and the foodie networks were immediately a-buzz with excitement.
It's set in a former pub - an atmosphere that it retains, despite the simple modern decor - and, with its small rooms and classy mix of classic and contemporary touches, it's reminiscent of the much-missed West Waterford gem, O'Brien Chop House in Lismore, where Rob's cooking once brought fans from many miles at weekends.
Now settled back in his home county with his partner Elaine Fleming, who also worked at Tankardstown, the pair chose well when they decided on Ballydehob - which is not only an emerging culinary hotspot, but also just a short drive from Schull where Rob's father Frank still produces his famous West Cork salamis.
Elaine's welcome is warm and friendly, and she runs a simple and efficient, yet relaxed, front of house in this intimate restaurant that has only around 18 seats.
Rob's quiet presence in the kitchen is relaxed yet focused on cooking and presenting the best possible local seasonal ingredients in a very contemporary and approachable way.
Offering dinner or Sunday lunch only, your choice is either a fixed price dinner menu (three courses, with two choices for each course), or a tasting dinner menu (nine courses). Both include bread, butter and a mid meal sorbet, and feature dishes that are creative, almost embryonic in style, drawing on local seafood and clever use of unusual ingredients such ham fat, and hogget (lamb over one year old).
Seasonality of local produce is at the heart of everything Rob does and, although there is no detail on the menu, there's a note about provenance on the website ("...should you wish to review our suppliers list, we would be happy to share a copy with you upon request"). It would be nice to see it on the menu, of course, but the interested diner should definitely Just Ask.
The wine list, while not extensive, is well organised and informative, and wines by the glass offer good value at around €6.50. But - given the location, which will involve driving for most guests - more choice by the glass, half bottles or carafes and other alternatives, would be welcome - and also perhaps some suggestions on wines matched to the menu.
All round, this is definitely a place to fit into your next West Cork itinerary. You can expect exciting cooking based on the very best of local foods in season and - given the pedigree of both Elaine and Rob - great value compared to what a similar meal would cost in a city.
