The family name Fuscardi is not unknown to many Dubliners who like their fish and chips but a whole new generation of Italian-Irish have now returned to their culinary roots and Tino Fuscardi's Da Mimmo is an example of this. Originally opened as a pizza restaurant with some fresh pasta dishes and a handful of deli items the tiny space’s popularity required an inevitable expansion to a premises two doors down.
Both spaces still function, the older as a lunch venue (serving two courses for €8.50), the newer as a slightly smarter space under the same name serving freshly prepared antipasti, pasta, main courses pizza and traditional Italian desserts. The new space is simple but well designed with chalky dark greys and warm rusts giving it a New York feel. Large partly-frosted picture windows cleverly hide the busy street while letting in light and a glimpse of Croke Park in the distance.
Dishes feature fresh ingredients, all freshly prepared and this reflects in the taste even in the simplest bruschetta al pomodoro. The new super-fast pizza oven takes pride of place in the view into the kitchen but is only part of the wide offering including risotto and creative daily specials such as squash ravioli served with sage butter and wild mushrooms.
A warm and friendly welcome is sometimes overwhelmed by long streams of people trying to persuade to staff to give them a table from an already overbooked space. Full of knowledge and mercifully free of upselling, advising on over-ordering and better value options, this is the best kind of neighbourhood restaurant.
Take-away is also available.
