A magnificent ruined 13th century Franciscan abbey presides over the pretty West Cork seaside village of Timoleague - a place with a long history as a culinary punctuation mark for travellers.
In the ’90s, Dillon’s traditional shopfront on the main street was a welcome sight for anyone needing a good food stop when heading west from Cork and, through several ownerships, it was always something of an oasis in this area until its closure in 2012.
But 2015 marked the beginning of a new era at Dillon’s, with the arrival of well-known West Cork chef Richard Milnes, who took over the premises and retained the original name. The place itself hasn't changed much either. Years ago, it was a grocery shop; the big shop windows make it a bright in daytime, the counter and the shelves behind have been retained - and also the evocative strip of well worn old tiles leading from the entrance and along in front of the counter.
It didn't take long for the word of Richard Milnes' arrival to spread - his menus may not be extensive but they are packed with quality, reflecting the superb local produce available from both land and sea, and he is a terrific chef. While thinking very local in terms of main ingredients, influences that come from far and wide ensure plenty of variety - and this, plus an informal ambience and great service from Richard's partner Valeria Ventura, is a sure fire recipe for success.
Dinner here is always a treat and, if you're lucky, you might hit a night when they have live music. Starters offer some very tempting choices – perhaps pan-seared scallops with garlic, chilli and chorizo and of course, Dillon’s signature Provencale Fish Soup.
Tidal waters reach right into Timoleague and fish features strongly in tempting dishes like pan-fried plaice with mussels and the monkfish that features strongly in the fish soup may be served with parsley and anchovies, or pickled lemon. Meat lovers will settle happily for flavoursome venison loin served with squash, beetroot and cherry, while vegetarians may enjoy something like char-grilled polenta, with red pepper, sautéed onions and spinach.
And so to dessert...perhaps an unusual baked chocolate pudding with parsnip ice-cream, or plum and cherry Eton mess with a tempting dessert wine or port?
The drinks list is also compact but offers plenty of choice, and not just wines but also local craft beer, juices (including Karmine Apple from Con Traas at Cahir) and soft drinks from Fentimans, including a refreshing ginger beer. And the carefully selected wines may surprise, offering aperitif choices like Cave Messias dry white port, and dessert wines including the Hungarian Tokaji Aszu and sparkling Bera Moscato D'Asti to round off your meal.
Afterwards, a walk around by the abbey may appeal - and for the next visit, that you may already be planning as you leave, why not take the lovely estuary walk (along a disused railway line) before your meal.
