It might have seemed as if there was no room for another restaurant in the well-serviced suburb of Malahide, but we’re glad locals Adriana and Mark Fitzpatrick didn’t feel that way.
With vision, drive and serious investment, they have created an impressive contemporary restaurant from two old cottages on Old Street in the village. The results are stunning, marrying a sensitive conversion with double height atrium, mezzanine floor, cavernous wine cellar and a beautiful cocktail bar and spacious dining room.
This is a no-expense spared set-up, with the stylish interior curated by Adriana, who clearly has a good eye. Pale parquet floors, beamed ceilings, exposed brick, covetable (and extremely comfortable) dining chairs and good lighting make it an exquisite space to relax in. Investment pieces include authentic Eames and Bibendum chairs in the glamorous bar - a grown-up room where you can enjoy a digestif by the (gas) fire - and the fabulous Arran Street East tea sets.
Happily, the quest for quality has been applied across the board, with the kitchen manned by serious talent Fergus Caffrey and young sous chef Chris Fulham. The pair both have pedigree from stints at leading establishments and, most recently, one of Dublin's best dining destinations, Amuse.
Menus are seasonal and Fergus is using top Irish ingredients to create exciting, modern Irish cooking. Starters might include an earthy barbecued beetroot salad with St Tola goats curd and walnuts and mains perhaps Comeragh mountain lamb with sheep yoghurt, wild garlic, baby turnip and Za’atar. While star ingredients, from Glenilen butter to organic Ballyhenry Angus beef, are being served, we’d love to see full provenance declared on the lovely menus. Everything is plated on beautiful stoneware and dishes burst with flavour.
The short dessert menu is high on originality, offering treats like sourdough doughnuts with hazelnut and milk chocolate and buttermilk snow or maybe a special of dazzling passionfruit tart with basil sorbet.
The wine offering is especially strong, with good options from affordable house wines to big hitters. There are over 23 wines by the glass, a great cocktail list and especially strong gin and whiskey offerings.
The Fitzpatricks quest for excellence has seen them recruit one of the city’s finest restaurant managers, Denise O’Brien, formerly of Pichet. As a result, the floor and bar staff, dressed in dark denim and bespoke charcoal aprons, have been expertly trained and all share Denise’s trademark warmth and enthusiasm. The service here is a joy.
Dining here isn’t cheap, but the quality on offer means everything is fairly priced. The early bird menu offers good value and the kids’ menu (half portions from the main menu are also available for children) and spacious dining room make it ideal for family dining too.
Old Street isn’t just a brilliant addition to the area - it's confidently set to become a destination restaurant attracting those from well beyond Malahide.
Old Street is set to become an old favourite in no time at all.
